Digital Photography Classes


Basic Camera Modes – Macro Photography

Macro image - bee on zinnia flower

This bee macro shot was taken with a non-macro lens - Sigma 18-250mm (click on the photo to see it full-size)

At Photography Classes Atlanta, the Macro Mode spot on the dial is one of the favorites. Macro photography is also known as Close-Up Photography. This mode is accessed by selecting the little section of the button on your dial that looks like a little flower.

Macro photography has the power to convert.

When you see the intricate details in an image that you had no idea were there, you will be amazed. Your amazement will lead to further photos and experimentation, and Voila! You will be an addict.

When you choose the Macro mode on your camera, your camera will select the proper aperture and shutter speed for that type of picture. The lens will adjust so you can focus at a much closer distance, as well.

If you are using a Digital SLR camera, combining the macro mode with a dedicated macro lens will give the best results. However, if you do not have a macro lens, you can still get great pictures, just because of the power of a digital SLR. The image sensor is larger than those on point and shoot cameras, thus giving more detail to the pixels. While special lenses can be very expensive, there are some that cost a bit less. There is a short list of macro lenses for Canon digital SLR cameras at www.canoneoslenses.org.

Point-and-Shoot Camera Tip
Using the viewfinder

There is one caution you must be aware of when using a compact digital camera with macro images. It is not as common as in the past because of the advance in camera technology, but here it is. If your compact is equipped with an optical viewfinder and a live view LCD screen, be sure to use the LCD to compose your macro photo. The reason for this is that the optical viewfinder on compact cameras does not see the exact image that will be recorded when you press the shutter button. Compact cameras do not see the image through the lens like a digital SLR camera does, so what you see is not what you get, especially when viewing extremely close images. Using the LCD screen solves this problem. The thing is, most newer compact cameras don’t even offer an optical viewfinder anymore, so this issue will be obsolete soon. And if you have purchased a camera recently, you are probably saying, “What is he talking about?” The bottom line is this, if you have an LCD that shows the picture you are about to take, you will get the picture you expect.

Digital SLRs already have this problem covered simply because of the way the image is seen and focused using the “through the lens” technology. However, many newer digital SLRs are also now offering the live view feature in which you see the image on the LCD screen.

Lighting Up Your Macro Photography Images

Sand Dollar - macro photo

Using a light diffuser disc or even an umbrella at the beach can help alleviate harsh shadows of the mid-day sun.

When taking close-ups, you will have different situations with lighting than you do with normal photographs for a couple of reasons. One of those is simply because of how close you are to the subject. The second is due to the small size of the objects that are the subjects of macro photos.

Think about it. When the shadows change by a yard or so in a landscape photograph, you will barely notice it, but if the shadow moves an inch on a flower that you are about to photograph, it changes everything about the composition. Then, too, light changes are more intense as you get closer to the subject. You really need to be aware of what is happening to the light as you get ready to shoot the picture. Waiting a few seconds for a cloud to move one way or the other could make a major difference in the outcome.

Another thing to watch is the quality of the light. Bright sunlight can be your worst enemy because of the harsh shadows it creates up close. On the other hand, while shade or overcast skies make it easier to get a more evenly lit image, the colors are not as intense.

The direction of the light also has a huge effect on the results. Make sure you are aware of the where the light is coming from. Many photographers like to shoot with the sun at their back, but using side lighting or back lighting can give really nice results, too. If you choose your position with light direction in mind, you can get some very dramatic effects. The hint here is that you should take control rather than letting the light control you.

Advanced Tip
Focusing

It does not matter whether you are using a compact (point and shoot) camera or an advanced digital SLR with a macro lens, accurate focus is the key to great macro photography. This is because of something know as “depth of field” which, in the case of macro, is very shallow. This simply means that if your focus is off just a hair, the photo will be messed up. Some photographers prefer to use manual focus so they have the control of the exact point in the subject where they want to focus.

You can also deepen the depth of field by using aperture priority (instead of macro mode) and set the aperture to a higher number, such as f/13. In this case, you must be aware that setting your aperture to a high number slows down the shutter speed of your digital camera. This brings another factor into play – camera steadiness. A tripod is really a great accessory to have for your macro photography work.


Macro Photography – Powerful Images

Macro photography is a whole world unto itself. There are plenty of photographers who are really good at it. Look for websites that are devoted to macro photography, or look on www.flickr.com and type close-up or macro into the search box. You will love the results, and when you try to duplicate their shots, you will learn a lot about close-ups, as well as delighting your viewing public.

 

Macro photo - close-up image of swallowtail butterfly macro photo - close-up image of hosta flower stamen Macro photo - close-up photo of tomato
Click on any macro photo to see a larger image. Notice the wonderful detail and nice depth of field rendering the backgrounds blurry.

It has come to my attention that most camera owners do not venture off of the Auto Mode setting in their camera. I don’t know why this is a surprise to me. People are timid when it comes to trying new things on their cameras.

Why is this true? Come on People. Get your fanny off Auto!

Here is a brief rundown of the settings that are common to most digital cameras, both point and shoot and digital SLR.

mode setting dials

Two different mode dials

Basic Camera Modes – these are the ones that will set your camera up for success. You set it, the camera does the rest. The reason they are called Basic Modes? When you choose one of these modes, you are giving the digital camera “Carte Blanche” to do what it does best. You don’t have any more control over the settings. You can’t choose the ISO, the White Balance, the Picture Quality (you CAN set the picture size). All you get to do after selecting a Basic Mode is to press the shutter button.

Full Automatic Mode: – This is the one most camera owners use, whether they know it or not. Full Automatic is indicated on the Mode dial by a green rectangular outline or the word AUTO, also in green. In this mode, the camera makes all exposure decisions with the exception of image quality (see JPEG vs RAW).

Portrait Mode – This is a Basic Mode that optimizes the digital camera for taking portrait shots. The camera chooses a wide aperture for the best depth of field effect (with a blurry background).

Landscape Mode – Choosing landscape mode tells the camera to select a smaller aperture so that most of the photo from front to back is in focus.

Macro (close-up) Mode – The term Macro generally refers to a photo with greater magnification of a small object where the camera is much closer to the subject than normal.

Sports Mode - Refers to a mode where the camera automatically chooses the fastest shutter speed possible. The ISO may be boosted to accomplish this. It also sets the camera into a “focus lock” where the camera will continue to focus on the subject as you pan with the movement of the action.

Night Photography Mode – A basic mode in which the camera will set a wide aperture and a slow shutter speed to compensate for very little light. In this mode it is highly recommended that you use a tripod or set your camera on a steady surface to avoid blur.

Flash Off Mode – Quite simply a mode in which the camera flash will not fire. Use this mode to assure the maximum natural light. Again, if there is not much light, a tripod is recommended.

Creative Modes – These settings allow the photographer to have some control over the results by dialing in settings of their own choice. When using Creative Modes, the photographer is always in control of the “Quality” setting, the ISO, and the White Balance.

Program Mode – This is the simplest of Creative Modes. It allows the camera to decide on the aperture and shutter speed.

Aperture Priority Mode - The photographer sets the Aperture value and the camera sets the Shutter Speed to the proper setting for the selected Aperture.

Shutter Priority Mode – The photographer sets the Shutter Speed and the camera decides on the proper Aperture for that setting.

Manual Mode – The photographer is in total charge of the Aperture and the Shutter Speed. The mode takes the most knowledge on the part of the photographer.

A-DEP Mode – Automatic Depth-of-Field – This mode is not very widely used, but it is a mode that will choose the widest depth of field for a selected scene. It is good for photos that have large groups of people in rows so that all the rows are in focus. It is also a kind of “landscape mode” on the creative side of the dial.

The video below has a more graphic approach to the Camera’s Basic Modes settings.

What Is The Big Deal About JPEG vs RAW?

One of the first things you should do before you take the first picture is to select the right file format. If you are using a digital SLR, you will have more choices than if you are shooting with a more basic digital camera.

The use of RAW formats has become much more widely accepted, however, there are still some photographers who do not know the difference between the two formats. And then there are those who know the difference and are strongly in favor of one or the other.

The goal of this post is to explain the difference between JPEG and RAW in a way that makes sense. In fact, the video is probably the best way for you to learn about both RAW and JPEG.

What is JPEG?

JPEG (also known as JPG) is The Standard digital format for graphic images produced by a digital camera. The camera uses software to process a digital image in-camera and produce a usable file that can be printed or posted on the Web. The processing of the image in the camera results in a “lossy compression” that discards certain unnecessary picture information in order to produce a picture with good quality and a smaller file size. Most digital images that are printed or saved to the Internet on website like Facebook are JPEG images.

What is RAW?

RAW is a non-standard format used by digital cameras to record the picture information of an image file. It records all the information about a photograph without any in-camera processing, and without any loss or compression of the image. RAW images must be “converted” to a format that is usable by print programs or web graphics, and in most cases, this will be a JPEG file format.

JPEG vs RAW

From the descriptions, it appears that RAW would be the best way to go. However, there are plenty of photographers who either don’t know about RAW or who resist the transition to recording RAW images in their digital cameras. There are some rather compelling reasons for both choices.

  1. + JPEG is how it has always been done and photographers are quite familiar (and satisfied) with this format. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
  2. + JPEG takes up much less storage space. In fact, RAW uses twice as much or more storage card space and computer hard drive space.
  3. + JPEG saves time. Many die-hard JPEG users contend that they don’t want to spend the extra time processing RAW files, and processing is definitely necessary. You can’t print or post a RAW picture. It simply must be converted.
  4. - JPEG – when saving an image in the JPEG format, you lose data every time you save. So, if you open your image 6 times and make changes, and save it each time, by the 6th time, you may be able to see the degradation of the image… not good.
  5. + RAW images preserve all the data that enters the camera.
  6. + RAW images can be used to get the entire dynamic range of color and contrast from the image using computer software such as Photoshop.
  7. + With RAW, you can still get a great image even if you got the settings wrong in-camera when you took the picture.
  8. - RAW – Images must be converted using some kind of software. Photoshop is the logical application, but if you don’t have an updated copy, your software may not support your newer digital camera.

Should you switch to RAW?

Many photographers and advanced amateurs are using RAW planning to switch. They claim it is a no-brainer because of the retention of all the data from the camera. Others are resisting. They either don’t want to spend the extra time that is necessary, or they think their work is good enough that the extra insurance of having all the pixel data is not needed.

On a personal note, the article by Gavin Seim mentioned below says it all. There are plenty of times that I actually forget to change the settings on my camera before I start to shoot. This is not the recommended way to start. You should ALWAYS check your settings when you pick up your camera. But sometimes we forget. The one thing that is certain is that my digital SLR is set to RAW format. So, if (and when) I forget to check my settings, I will normally be able to salvage the picture I wanted by using Photoshop with the RAW image I get from my camera.

Watch the video.

In the video, there is a reference to a blog post by Gavin Seim. That post can be viewed at “JPEG vs RAW – Let’s Settle It With A Single Example.”

Will Learning Photography Result In a Paying Job

What does a job in photography look like? How much do photographers really make? Is there much competition in getting a real job as a photographer? These are very legitimate questions you should ask when considering a job in photography.

Not everyone who wants to learn photography is looking to make it a career. However, you may be thinking of doing just that. Here is some information from the US Government Bureau of Labor Statistics that may interest you.

  • Competition for jobs is expected to be keen because the work is attractive to many people.
  • Technical expertise, a “good eye,” and creativity, are essential, and some photographers need a college degree.
  • More than half of all photographers are self-employed, a much higher proportion than for most occupations.

Job prospects.
Photographers can expect keen competition for job openings because the work is attractive to many people. The number of individuals interested in positions as commercial and news photographers is usually much greater than the number of openings. Salaried jobs in particular may be difficult to find as more companies contract with freelancers rather than hire their own photographers. Those who succeed in landing a salaried job or attracting enough work to earn a living by freelancing are likely to be adept at operating a business and to be among the most creative. They will be able to find and exploit the new opportunities available from rapidly changing technologies. Related work experience, job-related training, or some unique skill or talent—such as a background in computers or electronics or knowledge of a second language—also improve a photographer’s job prospects.

Getting Paid (Expected Salary)
Median annual wages of salaried photographers were $29,440 in May 2008. The middle 50 percent earned between $20,620 and $43,530. The lowest 10 percent earned less than $16,920, and the highest 10 percent earned more than $62,430. Median annual wages in the photographic services industry, which employed the largest numbers of salaried photographers, were $26,160.

Salaried photographers—most of whom work full time—tend to earn more than those who are self-employed. Because most freelance and portrait photographers purchase their own equipment, they incur considerable expense acquiring and maintaining cameras and accessories. Unlike news and commercial photographers, few fine arts photographers are successful enough to support themselves solely through their art.

The US Bureau of Labor Statistics has the latest income statistics for photographers.

Work Environment
Working conditions for photographers vary considerably. Some photographers may work a 5-day, 40-hour week. News photographers, however, often work long, irregular hours and must be available to work on short notice. Many photographers work part time or on variable schedules.

Portrait photographers usually work in their own studios but also may travel to take photographs at the client’s location, such as a school, a company office, or a private home. News and commercial photographers frequently travel locally, stay overnight on assignments, or travel to distant places for long periods.

Some photographers work in uncomfortable or even dangerous surroundings, especially news photographers covering accidents, natural disasters, civil unrest, or military conflicts. Many photographers must wait long hours in all kinds of weather for an event to take place and stand or walk for long periods while carrying heavy equipment. News photographers often work under strict deadlines.

Self-employment allows for greater autonomy, freedom of expression, and flexible scheduling. However, income can be uncertain and the continuous, time-consuming search for new clients can be stressful. Some self-employed photographers hire assistants who help seek out new business.

Education and training.
Entry-level positions in photojournalism or in industrial or scientific photography generally require a college degree in photography or in a field related to the industry in which the photographer seeks employment. Entry-level freelance or portrait photographers need technical proficiency. Some complete a college degree or vocational training programs.

Photography courses are offered by many universities, community and junior colleges, vocational-technical institutes, and private trade and technical schools. Basic courses in photography cover equipment, processes, and techniques. Learning good business and marketing skills is important and some bachelor’s degree programs offer courses focusing on them. Art schools offer useful training in photographic design and composition.

Photographers may start out as assistants to experienced photographers. Assistants acquire the technical knowledge needed to be a successful photographer and also learn other skills necessary to run a portrait or commercial photography business.

Individuals interested in a career in photography should try to develop contacts in the field by subscribing to photographic newsletters and magazines, joining camera clubs, and seeking summer or part-time employment in camera stores, newspapers, or photo studios.

This video gives a pretty good perspective about different aspects of a photography career and what to think about as you consider a job in photography.

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